Friday, July 1, 2011

Tour Divide Day 21.

205km. Chama to Pueblo Pintada.
Total time: 16.5 hours.

...Is this real life?...
...Is this just fantasy?...
...Caught in a landslide...
...No escape from reality...

When the credits role on my adventure, this is the song that I hope will be playing. So, I don't know all of the lyrics really, and I haven't shot anyone, but I imagine that it is a metaphor for my personal inner struggle...and my eventual victory over my weaknesses (I can hope). Also, the swings in musical style seem to match my experience pretty well. At the end of this, I want to be rocking out like Wayne and Garth.

The three amigos caught up to and passed me about half way through the day, but I saw them again when I arrived in Cuba. Our detour around the forest fires put us in to Cuba about a day before we would have arrived, based on how long it took other Dividers to get through. In some respects, it is a shame to miss that section. Then again, I needed a day like this and the light at the end of the tunnel just got brighter. I feel as though I can see around me now and enjoy it more (I hope this lasts!).

Today was forgiving in terrain and in weather. No major climbs. A mix of gravel and pavement. A moderately cloudy sky to keep the heat down. Black clouds on one side were filled with ash from the fires. Black clouds on the other were filled with lightning. And there was no headwind for the first 60kms and the last 20kms of the day.

Relationships are funny on this trip. I've maintained my ignorance of their last names and contact information for the three amigos because, somehow, I think it is nicer that way. I want to stay with them, but I have resisted the temptation to do so in an organized way. I want some element of chance. Some way to see how things are different when you know that you may never see someone again.

John decided to stay in Cuba for the night and get some rest. I wanted some more mileage for the day. So did Luke and Dan. I was a bit sad to see these guys part. I've enjoyed imagining them together at the mexican border with big black sombreros. That was a great movie.

Heading out of Cuba, I rode a ways back from Luke and Dan (I can't keep up). Then I got a flat (the first of the trip) and the gap widened. I suspected that I might see them in Pueblo Pintada, about 85kms out, as that was the major service point between. In any case, that was going to be my destination.

I passed an Indian reservation around sunset and saw some navahos on horses. Maybe not the kind that first come to mind. These were young guys dressed a bit like 50 cent. It was cool anyway.

I rode the last several hours in the dark. Several magnificent hours. Traffic dies down. The wind dies down. The temperature is perfect and you can hear crickets. There is very little light pollution and the sky is clear (we are now west of the smoke). I could see shooting stars. It was sooo nice.

I found a place that I thought was the Pueblo service point. No sign of Dan or Luke. No problem. But, there were dogs, so I opted to find a spot near a church that I'd seen about a kilometre back. That effort was fruitless as I roused three dogs. Those little things then chased me for some time.

So, I kept going. I felt good. It was probably some of the most comfortable riding that I've had on the trip. I felt like I could go all night. I eventually found the real Pueblo and I found Luke and Dan camped at the gas station/industrial center of town/only store in. 50 mile radius.

There is a dog who seems friendly and keeps pestering us. He must be able to smell the macdonalds grease on us. And the generator beside me keeps going on and off. But I'm tired enough to sleep through it.

I stink, I'm dirty, I'm tired, I'm sleeping on gravel at a gas station in the middle of New Mexico. And I love it.
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network


Blogger oldultrarunner said...

Nice quote from Queen Tori! One of my favorite Queen songs!!! You're doing great lady!!!

July 1, 2011 at 5:21:00 PM MDT  
Blogger oldultrarunner said...

Tori, just for are the lyrics to Bohemian Rhapsody by favorite Queen...Enjoy :)

Is this the real life?
Is this just fantasy?
Caught in a landslide
No escape from reality
Open your eyes
Look up to the skies and see
I'm just a poor boy (girl), I need no sympathy
Because I'm easy come, easy go
A little high, little low
Anyway the wind blows, doesn't really matter to me, to me

Mama, just killed a man
Put a gun against his head
Pulled my trigger, now he's dead
Mama, life had just begun
But now I've gone and thrown it all away
Mama, ooo
Didn't mean to make you cry
If I'm not back again this time tomorrow
Carry on, carry on, as if nothing really matters

Too late, my time has come
Sends shivers down my spine
Body's aching all the time
Goodbye everybody - I've got to go
Gotta leave you all behind and face the truth
Mama, ooo - (anyway the wind blows)
I don't want to die
I sometimes wish I'd never been born at all

I see a little silhouetto of a man
Scaramouch, scaramouch will you do the fandango
Thunderbolt and lightning - very very frightening me
Gallileo, Gallileo,
Gallileo, Gallileo,
Gallileo Figaro - magnifico

But I'm just a poor boy and nobody loves me
He's just a poor boy from a poor family
Spare him his life from this monstrosity
Easy come easy go - will you let me go
Bismillah! No - we will not let you go - let him go
Bismillah! We will not let you go - let him go
Bismillah! We will not let you go - let me go
Will not let you go - let me go (never)
Never let you go - let me go
Never let me go - ooo
No, no, no, no, no, no, no -
Oh mama mia, mama mia, mama mia let me go
Beelzebub has a devil put aside for me
for me
for me

So you think you can stone me and spit in my eye
So you think you can love me and leave me to die
Oh baby - can't do this to me baby
Just gotta get out - just gotta get right outta here

Ooh yeah, ooh yeah
Nothing really matters
Anyone can see
Nothing really matters - nothing really matters to me

Anyway the wind blows...

July 1, 2011 at 5:30:00 PM MDT  
Anonymous mary_f said...

Go, Tori--Glad you're feeling good near the end of this ordeal. This is JP's Mom--our whole family has been following your eloquent blog. It has been neat to see you overtaking JP, Tom, and Ray--hope you all can finish pretty much together.

July 1, 2011 at 6:12:00 PM MDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Surprised that my Dad hasn't chimed in yet...but there's Mom from the other coast! I wonder if she remembers how I used to blast Bohemian Rhapsody on my stereo in 1976-77. My daughter and I were actually just watching Wayne's World last weekend. Party on, Tori!

July 1, 2011 at 9:58:00 PM MDT  
Anonymous Fred E, said...

Hi, Tori - Pie Town it is, or very soon will be. The Night Rider has conquered the Day once again! Out here in Idyllwild, we watch in anticipation and read in considerable awe. You can do it, and knowing that here blesses our days.

July 1, 2011 at 11:01:00 PM MDT  
Blogger Matthew Lee said...

Riding the Divide is fantasy in real life! Especially NM. Nice post from the road. Be sure to stop and dwell in Pie Town. If convenient, deliver a big hug for me to Nita at the Toaster House and Cathy at the Pie-O-Neer.

July 1, 2011 at 11:12:00 PM MDT  
Blogger kcab20 said...

Geez - I don't feel worthy of posting after Matthew Lee. Still - just wanted to wish you well as you CONQUER THE GILA today!!! Can't wait to hear what tunes this monster day stirs up in your mind! The end is NEAR!!! YOU CAN DO IT!!!!

July 2, 2011 at 9:43:00 AM MDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, Tori--Almost there! I saw a humming bird outside of the restaurant window this morning in El Paso and thought of your earlier blog--really humming along now. Gail E.

July 2, 2011 at 7:32:00 PM MDT  
Blogger Franderen said...

GOOOO Tori almost there!!!
Hugs from Denmark

July 3, 2011 at 5:26:00 PM MDT  
Anonymous Fred E. said...

Tori - You are all of that. You are also a Walking Wonder...

July 4, 2011 at 12:01:00 AM MDT  

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